Trawler Punches on the IntraCoastal Waterway

The front passing thru last night was a non-event. In south Florida it will not even cool-down, temperatures will be in high 70's for the next 7 days or so. All of the rain passed to the north of us around Miami. By this morning it was a little cloudly and calm. We ran down the inside of the Keys, past Key Largo and Tavernier, Plantation Key and Islamorada. Except for one powerboat going north and a sailboat from Connecticut going south we did not see another big boat today. There is nobody else anchored where we are off Lower Metecumbe Key. As usual the water was shallow and today when the tide was running in we could see the bottom in 5-6 feet of water as we glided over. Three purposes came over and I could see them even before they joined us. We especially enjoy the flying fish trying to escape being dinner for another fish. I noticed today that they actually get vertical flapping their fins and then kick forward with their tail to skip across the water.
After anchoring I went under the boat. I noticed a vibration a few days ago and today found a bandana and some old fishing line wrapped around the shaft. After cutting that off I decided to replace the propelpropellerlor zinc that protects the propeller from corrosion. We will be in a marina for 3 1/2 months and with stray current zincs can go fast.
This is our last night underway before reaching Marathon tomorrow. Its always a mixed feeling at this point - happy to have made it in good shape, but sad to be missing the daily cruising lifestyle.
Today's Stats: Location: Metecumbe Bight, Florida Keys, ICW MM 1167, running time 4.42 hrs, average speed 8.3 mph ( 7.21 knots )

A lazy Keys day. After checking the forecast which now keeps winds south for another day we decided to stay put at our anchorage just above Key Largo. Its warm and grey and so far today we have only seen two boats passing on the Waterway. The wind has settled down and with thatwe have the bugs from the nearby Mangrove swamps. There are no homes in sight and only the occasional car on the highway at the far side of the sound. We are the only boat at anchor here. Sandra's making bread and we are enjoying the quiet.

Today started warm ( 75 ) but a little windy ( 10-15 from the E SE ). The first part of the day was down the broad ( 6 miles wide ) waters of Biscayne Bay. There is only the reef between the Bay and ocean here. Later on, the waters narrowed into Card and Barnes Sounds, but these are still 3-4 miles wide. There was some chop from the wind, but not enough to really upset the boat. Tonight was are anchored just above Key Largo. We will be watching the forecast, as most of the places to anchor here do not offer protection from north winds. North winds are predicted in a few days and we may move to a better place if that happens. Today we entered blue green Keys waters, but quite shallow. The inside route to Marathon only has 5-6 feet of water so the boat cannot have much more than 4 1/2 foot draft to use this route. we need 4 feet which makes it OK for us.

Today Stats: Location Thursday Cove, Key Largo, FL ICW MM 1133, running time 4.78 hrs, average speed 8.11 mph ( 7.05 knots )

Sometimes your plans change fast!! I woke up at about 4 am to find wind stronger ( 15 knots ) and shifted to SW from NE. My anchor had started to drag and we were now about 25 feet off some docks. Rather than reset the anchor we decided to pull up and depart at 5:45 am. We then ran in the dark thru the Ft Lauderdale harbor. Just as I crossed the main channel there was one cruise ship docking or leaving ( could not tell which ) and one coming in. Once past these florating cities we had a nice trip down thru Miami. At Biscayne Bay it was a little choppy, but settled down when we reached our anchorage off Key Biscayne near the Yacht Club. The water is now clear and blue and we have reached the Keys!!!

Today Stats: Location Key Biscayne, FL ICW MM 1095, running time 4 hours, average speed 7.56 mph ( 6.48 knots )

Miami High Rise Housing:

Another bridge day!!! We again had seven bridges to open today. I carefully plotted them on the GPS and noted speed needed between each bridge. The first bridge today at the entry to Lake Boca Raton sometimes has a three knot current. Today it was not so bad. We saw only a few powerboats, mostly SportFishers going out the inlets to the ocean. The planning paid off, we made every bridge on time and were anchored before 10:30 am. We are in Lake Sylvia just in the shadow of the Pier 66 complex in Ft. Lauderdale. Seven or eight other boats are here, some just locals enjoying the sun and near 80 degree weather. The forecast going forward for the rest of the trip to the Keys looks good at this point.
Today's stats: Location: Lake Sylvia, Ft. Lauderdale, FL ICW MM 1065, running time 3.33 hrs, average speed 6.96 mph, 5.98 knots

Bahia Mar Yachting Center:

Today started out warm in the upper 50's and for the first time felt like a Florida morning. The weather forecast going forward is 60's at night and low 80's in the day!!!!! The run today took us from Jupiter down lake Worth, thru the Palm beach area and then on to Delray Beach. We left early and that avoided some of the locals doing day trips in fast big wake generating boats. Again we saw damage from the recent storms including many roofs gone, as well as some docks, pool enclosures etc. I would call today a bridge day. We had to open 7 bridges and at two of them our timing was off and we had to wait 15 or so minutes at each. That and the no-wake zones accounted for the slow progress today. After a long number of days in marinas and private docks we are again at anchor and plan to only anchor between here and Marathon in the Keys. We are anchored in Pelican Harbor, a man-made basin surrounded by docks and condos and homes in Delray Beach.
Today's Stats: Location, Delray Beach, FL ICW MM 1042, running time 5.5 hrs, average speed 6.4 mph ( 5.5 knots )

The chill was out of the air this morning with a temperature of near 50, still cold for central Florida in late November. We ran down the rest of the wide Indian River today, then into narrow waters past Hobe Sound and into Jupiter. As you cross into the Gold Coast the houses get bigger and many of the communities are gated. We arrived at noon in the marina at Admirals Cove in Jupiter Florida where we are the guests of Vic & May Ann Toth. I practiced law with Vic in Reston, Virginia in the late 70's and we have boated together. The marina graciously provided a complimentary night and we had a fine Thanksgiving Dinner at the Toth;s home. It warmed up into the high 70's and we enjoyed the Florida evening by the pool.
The highlight of todays trip was a pod of three purposes running in our wake for about 10 minutes. A picture of one is below. We also for the first time since leaving home were passed by boaters operating too fast or with too large wakes. We will have to deal with that until we get below Miami in a few days.
Today's stats: Location Admirals Cove, Jupiter, FL ICW MM 1007, running time 5.33 hrs, average speed 8.05 mph, 6.95 knots

Sunrise over Ft Pierce Marina:


Porpose in Indian River:

First we want to wish all of our family and friends a Happy Thanksgiving!!! We miss you, but not the weather up north!!
We had a very nice day-off in Melbourne waiting for the winds to settle down. Downtown Melbourne has nice shops and we found a good Italian restaurant, Bella's.
This morning it was about 46 degrees and sunny. Winds were down to 5 MPH from the north and we made good time heading south. Some of todays trip passed some very exclusive communities. We also started to see some hurricane damage. There were boats washed up on shore, one sailboat mast sticking out in the middle of the channel and houses missing roof tiles or shingles. The big shock was getting to the Ft. Pierce City Marina. The entire outer marina was destroyed last year and it has not yet been rebuilt. They have just finished rebuilding the inner docks and that is where we are docked.
We fueled-up today, fuel has dropped and we paid $2.39 for diesel, we used 105 gallons in 34.39 hours or 3.05 gph indicating that I ran to boat faster/harder since taking fuel in Georgia. That was 2.68 mpg.
Today's stats: Location Ft Pierce City Marina, FL ICW MM 966.1, running time 5.33 hrs, average speed 9.09 mph, 7.82 knots

Home on Florida ICW - near Wabasso Beach

Overnight the wind dropped and shifted to the SouthWest. This was good as it pushed the boat off the dock making sleeping better and in the morning allowed the boat to get off the dock easily. We ran down to Melbourne in the wide Indian River under threatening skys and the occassional shower. Winds were 10-15 MPH. Just as we pulled into Melbourne Harbor Marina it rained. We are now tied-up in a very secure marina waiting for the strong winds and front to pass. We went into Historic Downtown melbourne which has many nice shops, but of course nothing you really need.
Today's Stats: Location Melbourne Harbor Marina, Florida ,ICW MM 918.5, running time 4.33 hrs, average speed 8.73 mph ( 7.58 knots )

We have been keeping a close eye on the weather. First there was Tropical Storm Gamma and then also a local storm due to come over Florida late Monday. This is predicated to kick up wind into the 20 plus mph range. We decided to take a long run of over 83 miles to Titusville near the Kennedy Space Center. That would cover 2 days travel in one day and allow us to sit-out the wind tomorrow in Melbourne.
Today's run took us thru Daytona Beach and then down a large open body of water called Mosquito Lagoon and then into the Indian River. We had mild temperatures in the lower 70's, but many rain showers and toward the afternoon the wind picked up enough that we decided to go to a Marina instead of anchor.
Today's Stats: Location, Kennedy Point Marina, Titusville, FL, ICW MM 882, running time 10 hours, average speed 8.39 mph, 7.3 knots.

OK, sometimes being at a dock can be worse than being at anchor. Overnight in St. Augustine winds increased to over 20 knots, gusting to 30. Our slip was on the outside of the marina and exposed to the North wind. Our boats transom faced the waves and it was rocking all night. The marina was fully booked for the weekend because of the Holiday illuminations so staying another night was not an option. I had to power the boat out into the wind in reverse and then get clear. I waited until slack tide and it went well. With a single engine trawler, the boat will not turn to the left in reverse. That always makes backing more interesting.
Once clear of the marina we had a good current for a short run to Palm Coast where we will stay at the dock of fellow MTOA ( Marine Trawler Owners Association ) members Phil and Sarah Lowe.
Today's Stats: Location at dock, Palm Coast, Florida, ICW MM 802, running time 2.75 hours, average speed 9.05 mph ( 7.78 knots )

We had a short run today to the City Marina in St Augustine, FL where we will spend two nights. I'll check into the fresh water pump issue, pick-up our mail, write some checks for bills and chill out. St. Augustine is one of our favorite stops on the trip. Today set a record of 85 degrees, but a cold front is coming and we will be back into the 60's, but I am sure that is better than up north!!!!!
Today's Stats: Location, St Augustine City Marina, FL, ICW MM 778, running time 2 hrs, average speed 6.69 mph ( 5.75 knots )

It rained last night, our first rain in a few weeks. The rain was welcome, washing the sea salt from the boat. The moon was still full as we left early this morning and crossed from Georgia to Florida. We had favorable tide and current for the morning and we were soon past Fernandia Beach and it's chemical plants. This part of the ICW includes an 8 mile long no-wake zone!!! It always seems longer than that. Tonight we are anchored at Pine Island about 15 miles north of St Augustine. We will stop there 2 days to again sample the food and sights. I will also try to fix our pressure water system. Last night the pump stopped pumping ( actually just runs and barely moves water ). I order a rebuild kit and will try and fix it tomorrow. We do have a backup manual pump, but that is cold water only.
Today's Stats: Location Pine Island, Florida, ICW MM 765, running time 6.5 hours, average speed 8.55 mph ( 7.35 knots ).

Moon Over Pine Island:

Does it get any better than this - calm winds, a great anchorage, great views? We lowered the 9.9 foot Boston Whaler Tender into the water and headed to the Sea Camp Dock at Cumberland Island. The current was ripping and when we got to the dock there was no space to tie-up. I decided to raft off a powerboat. My luck it belonged to one of the residents having docking rights, so I had to move it and raft off a Park Rangers boat. We were the only people on the 10 am tour and had a nice Park Ranger who really knew her plants gave us the tour. When we were looking at a Saw Palmetto plant we found a small tree frog, the only one Sandra & I have ever seen in the wild!!!. Sandra also saw an armalidallo and we saw 4 or 5 wild horses near the beach. After that we walked the empty one mile of beach back to the dock and our dinghy. Getting back on the boat was a trick with again current and a little wind swinging the dinghy as we lifted it on the boat. It's about 280 lbs, just enough that you have to watch what you are doing. Its all secure and aboard now.
Today's Stats: at anchor, Cumberland Island, Georgia

We had a great night at the Back River anchorage. The wind died and all we had to worry about was the usual 2 knot current and 8 foot tides in this section of Georgia. The extreme tidal range means that slack water only lasts about 20 minutes after high tide. Today we crossed the sounds of Altamaha, Buttermilk, St Simons, and St Andrew. The conditions were perfect for the crossings which was good. At St Andrew Sound you actually turn just a few hundred yards from the breaker line in the Atlantic Ocean. Most of the day currents were OK. We stopped for fuel mid-morning and purchased 105 gallons of diesel at $2.659 per gallon. Since our last fill-up we avaraged 2.93 mpg or 2.55 nautical miles per gallon. We are burning about 2.45 gallons per hour on average which is pretty good for a 25,000 pound powerboat with all the comforts of home.
By mid-day we were at low tide. The Army Corps of Engineers has no budget in 2005 to maintain the Georgia Portion of the iCW so we saw some very thin water towards Kings Bay and Cumberland Sound. As we entered Kings Bay Area three sailboats ahead of me went in every direction looking for deeper water. Just a little while later I saw the sailboat aground in the picture below. They will be OK when tide comes up.
Tonight we are at Drum Point across from Cumberland Island National Seashore and will go there to visit tomorrow.
Todays stats: ICW MM 711 Drum Point, Cumberland Island, GA, running time 7 hours, average speed 8.76 MPH, 7.62 Knots

Do not try this in home waters:

We thought we were done with the heavy clothes, but toady started at about 47 degrees, so out they came again. Still, the sun soon warmed and it was back to 70 by noontime. Today's run is one of my favorites of the whole trip. Leaving the Savannah, GA area and winding thru the marshes and across the great Sounds of Georgia between the Sea Islands. Today we crossed Ossabau, St Catherines, Sapello and Doboy Sounds. There are large open water crossing and you cross less than a mile from the Atlantic Ocean. Winds were light and we had perfect conditions. Tonight we are anchored behind Doboy Island. The first anchorage I wanted to use was already filled with some sailboats. There is almost no development here, as most of the islands are protected. That is part of the charm of the area. The trip today was also made better by a favorable tide and current all day.
Today stats: Location Back River, Doboy Island, GA, ICW MM 651.1, running time 7.6 hours , average speed 8.74 mph ( 7.59 knots )

Today is clear and the day started a little cool ( upper 40's ) and a little windy. We took the local bus into Savannah and toured the city. The two highlights are the Riverwalk which are the old warehouses converted to stores and restaurants and the many beautiful park squares all over the city. Grass is green and of course everywhere the spanish moss hangs from the live oak trees. Today was Veteran's Day and we saw part of the local parade. The historic part of Savannah has many old homes, but the style is not as distinctive as that in Charleston.

Sandra on the Savannah River:


Savannah's Riverwalk District:


A Savannah Square:

You have to be flexible when you play the cruising down the ICW game. Overnight the weather forecast changed and now Friday, which we planned to travel on will have more wind ( 15-20 knots ), than Thursday ( 10-15 knots ).
We decided to leave Beaufort in the AM to have a better open water crossing of Port Royal Sound just below the Paris Island Marine Corps Base.
It was windy, but the boat handled the wind directly on the nose from the west very well. The rest of the day was turning though the marsh and crossing the shipping channel on the Savannah River.
Tonight we are at Thunderbolt just below Savannah and tomorrow we will go to see the town which we have never visited. Today was 84 degrees and probably the last 80's until we get into Florida in a week or so.
Yesterday I went under the boat and did not find any issues with the propeller of the boat.
Today's stats: Location, Thunderbolt , Georgia ICW MM 583.2, running time 5.5 hours, average speed 8.58 mph ( 7.45 knots)

Today we had anotgher perfect sunrise over the marsh in South Carolina. Unlike yesterday the fog was very light and gone by the time we departed at 7:30 am. The trip today took us down the Coosaw River which is quite wide. We then entered Brickyard Creeak heading toward Beaufort, SC. I noticed a slight vibration on the boat today and will go under to check the prop this afternoon. We arrived at the marina at 10 am and by the afternnon the boats are waiting off the marina to dock. I did not expect this much traffic in the afternoon.
Today's Stats: Location Town Marina, Beaufort, SC, ICW MM 536, running time 2.33 hrs, average speed 7.74 mph

We left Charleston, SC today at 6:35 am in what we thought was light fog. Two and one-half hours later we were out of a really thick fog bank. Of course the ICW was narrow and changing direction all the time in the fog. The GPS and chart plotter allow you to tell what you are doing, but it is very hard to steer the boat with no visual references. I did run toward shore once. Stopped the boat just as the bow touched mud, but was able to back off. We are anchored tonight about 15 miles north of Beaufort, SC. Ou plan is to spend two days there, since a cold front is coming and will kick-up the winds
Today's stats: Location Rock Creek, SC, ICW MM 516.1, running time 6.83 hours, average speed 7.09 mph

Today, Monday, November 7th is our last full day in Charleston. The weather has been great, in the low 80's and sunny. We went throught the historic part of the city again on foot yesterday and today just chilled, restocked the food supplies and found a good local pizza spot. The boat has been cleaned and probably is cleaner than when we departed Virginia.

Pictures:

Ready for some big fish?????


Punches at the Dock in Charleston:

For the first time on this trip it was almost 60 degrees in the morning. We have a short day so we did not leave the anchorage until 8 am. Tow hours later we were tied up at the dock at Charleston's City Marina. Coming into the harbor the new Cooper River Bridge dominates the skyline ( see picture below ). We toured the city this afternoon and rode through the historic district. Homes near the water here are now selling for 3-6 million each!!!! We will stay here 3 days before moving south again.
Today stats: Location City Marina Charleston, SC, ICW MM 469.3, running time 2 hours, average speed 7.93 mph

Image: New Cooper River Bridge - Charleston, SC

It was still a little chilly ( 46 DEGREES ) so we started the heat on the boat for what we hope is the last time on this southern leg of the trip. Today we enjoyed the low country of South Carolina and the vistas across the marshes. In mid-morning we saw two eagles at the entry of a creek. The current was against us for about 80% of the day and except for a few power boats and some sailboats we passed later in the day we had the waterway to ourselves. Tonight we are anchored about 15 miles north of Charleston, SC at Dewee Creek. The tide was low when we anchored and it already has come up 2 feet in a couple of hours.
Today stats: Location DeWee Creek, SC, ICW MM 454.9, running time 8 1/4 hours, average speed 8.09 MPH

Ok, I did it again. The best item from yesterday, Wednesday, November 2nd was left out. In the morning we saw a 6 foot long alligator in the river. Sandra has been looking for one on every trip, so now she has her first sighting!!!!!
Today we have to wait until 7am to start our day because I needed fuel and last night the fuel dock was full of other boats. We purchased 108 gallons of diesel at 2.99 per gal. At the moment the burn rate of fuel so far on the trip appears to be about 3 1/3 gph since last fill-up.
Todays run was the starkest contrast of the ICW so far. The houses and condos of Myrtle Beach suddenly give way to the pristine Waccamaw River. We had a favorable current so we slowed down to enjoy the view and look for wildlife. No eagles yet, but an Osprey and many turtles sunning themselves on the banks as the tide falls.
Tonight we are anchored on Thoroughfare Creek off the Waccamaw River about 15 miles north of Georgetown, SC. We anchored here two years ago and really like the spot. We have one sailboat behind us. There is no development anywhere in sight or sound.
Today's Stats: Location Thoroughfare Creek, SC N 33 30.887 W 79 08.643, running time 5.33 hrs, 43.38 miles, 8.18mph
Photos:
Shrimp Boat on ICW:
Shrimp Boat on ICW near Mrytle Bach, SC
Sandra on the Upper Deck:

Current at the Anchorage:

The early morning found us with the wind across our boat slip and a large sailboat next to us. I knew if I tried to back-out of the slip I would blow into that boat. Instead Sandra and I "wrapped" the boat around the end of the dock with lines. It was now facing toward the entry channel of the marina and we got underway without any more trouble. The wind was North about 10-15 knots, but we had a smooth ride down the Cape Fear River to Southport. Along the way I made contact with two boats that I knew from a Trawler Internet list. Overall progress today was slowed by falling tides and big currents, sometimes as much as two knots against us.
Tonight we are at Dock Holidays Marina in Myrtle Beach, SC. We had walked out to US 17 and hit the Home Depot, West Marine, Advance Auto and Food Lion for some supplies. Temperatures are in lower 70's and the shorts are out.
Today's Stats: location ICW MM 348, running time 7 3/4 hours, average speed 6.68 MPH

I forgot to post the best incident from yesterday, October 31. We were passing through Bouge Inlet, NC ICW MM 229. There were about 100 small boats anchored, some in the channel. A barge came thorough the bridge and some of the anchored boats fishing refused to move and the barge had to duck them. Crazy!!!! Some of the boats forced me out of the channel and the anchored boats yelled at me that only the center line counted as the channel. A very dangerous situation. It looks like local harbor police do nothing to help this.
Today we left early because we had three restricted bridges to deal with. The morning was much warmer and we even saw our first more tropical looking water behind the boat today. We are now in an area with large tides and currents. The boat would be at 10 mph and then drop to 6 mph due to currents. The GPS allows us to time the bridges and we often were barely moving the last 10 minutes so we would not have to sit in front of a bridge with a current running. I slipped under one bridge without opening it, we need about 21 1/2 feet and the gauge under the bridge said 23 feet.
Today we are at Carolina Beach State Marina. Only two boats pulled in and its very quiet. This area is known for native Venus Flytrap Plants, but Sandra and I could not find any in a walk through the swamp. For the first time since leaving Virginia we are now in shorts and the forecast is even warmer.
Today's Stats: Location Carolina Beach, NC, ICW MM 297, running time 6.75 hrs, average speed 7.72 mph