Sunday, March 21, 2004

 
Saturday, March 20, 2004
Our final morning of this trip was clear, cool with light winds. That did not last, as we picked up winds and a swell as we passed the Navy piers in Norfolk. By the time we made the turn north into the Bay winds were 10-15 knots from the south and a large 2-foot swell was running behind us. With the seas behind us the boat tended to change direction and hand steering was the order of the day. The good news is we had favorable tides up the bay and made very good speed over the ground.
With southerly winds even the Rappahannock River was choppy and we did not get outside to enjoy the day until about 20 minutes from our dock.
It was strange to say the least to pull back in at 2:35pm after 5 full months on the boat and the water. Our home came thru the winter fine and we will slowly have to adjust to the complexities of land living. For starters there are too many places to look for things (or forget where they are!!).
In a few days I will post some statistics for the whole northbound leg of our trip.
Today's stats 61.07 nautical miles (70.28 miles), running time 8 hours 7.63 knots ( 8.78 MPH ) Location: Home Dock, Lancaster, Virginia


Friday, March 19, 2004

 
Friday, March 19, 2004
We decided to leave Elizabeth City, NC at 5:45 am. This would allow us thru a restricted bridge and allow making the first lock time on the Dismal Swam at 8:30am. We enjoyed the river leading to the Dismal Swamp Canal. Of course we were the only boat. After the lock we stopped at the North Carolina Welcome Center on the canal. They have a very nice dock where you can stay overnight while transiting the canal.
The locks at each end of the canal hold back about 8 feet of water. The canal itself is very straight, narrow and dates to the time of the American Revolution. They mentioned to us at the welcome center that without fiscal year 2005 Federal funding the canal will have to close.
We certainly were happy to be in a canal today. We could hear the very gusty winds blowing, sometimes over 20 mph.
After leaving the canal we hit the marine development below Norfolk. It is always a shock how the swamp gives way to all that development.
Tonight we are anchored in the Lafayette River about 5 miles past ICW MM zero. Tomorrow's forecast looks good and we should be home by tomorrow night.
Today's stats 56.48 miles, running time 10.5 hours 5.46 Mph Location: Lafayette River, Norfolk, VA ICW MM minus 5


Thursday, March 18, 2004

 
Thursday, March 18, 2004
The dawn was clear, cold and frost was on the docks off the Pungo River in NC. I listened again to the weather forecast. Higher winds were predicted for every day after today so we decided to make the entire run down the Alligator River and across the Albemarle Sound to Elizabeth City in one day. Normally I prefer shorter days, but the forecast did not have another good weather window for quite a few days.
The sky was Carolina Blue when we left. Behind the boat the water is a dark as tea, full of tannic acid from the trees. In the early morning most of the run is in the Alligator-Pungo Canal, a 21.3-mile man-made cut. A boat ahead indicates zero visibility due to fog, but it has cleared when we get there. Small world, they are going to relocate to work in a boatyard in Deltaville, VA. We exchange phone numbers over the VHF radio and I hope we will see them again when we get home. For the last 3 miles of the canal I have to follow a tug pushing a large barge since its not safe to pass due to sunken stumps on each side of the canal.
By the time we reach Albemarle Sound winds have picked up a little and there is enough roll to the boat so I have to hand steer across the sound. The actual crossing is about 14 miles of open water and takes a little over 1 1/2 hours.
We then make our way up-river to Elizabeth City, NC under dark skies. We try the free town docks, but the slips are very short and with the winds we cannot safely keep the bow of the boat off the steel bulkhead. We decide instead to tie up at Pelican Marina just across the river.
Tomorrow we will transit the Dismal Swamp Canal and by late afternoon return to ICW MM Zero where last October this adventure started!!!
Today's stats 82.21 miles, running time 10.25 hours 8.02 Mph Location: Elizabeth City, NC ICWS MM 51.2


 
Wednesday, March 17, 2004
Yow…. Damp and only 47 degrees in the morning. Clouds, so not much chance of warming up. The Keys are just a pleasant memory now…..
The wind shifted to N overnight. As we expected the Neuse River had a nasty 2-foot chop on our nose. This river is just as wide as the Chesapeake Bay and can be just as nasty. We slowed the boat down a little for a better ride and in about 3 hours the worst was behind us. The rest of the day was much smoother and we pulled into Dowry Creek Marina near Belhaven, NC off the Pungo River in the early afternoon just as rain started again.
It was so damp and chilly even inside the boat that we started the generator and ran the heat around lunch time.
This is a very nice marina, family run with first-rate facilities including a lounge, pool and tennis courts. The also gave us the use of a free courtesy van to run into town.
We are still keeping an eye on the weather. The next two days include the Alligator River and Albemarle Sound, both also wide and open. We are still not sure if we will need to delay a day or so or not.
Sandra has done our last laundry before hitting our home dock and I have filled the water tanks of the boat one more time. It is starting to sink in- soon the trip will be over and all the "noise" of daily life shoreside will wash over us. A few days ago I noticed some people looked at our boat and us. I realized how lucky we are to be able to do this.
Today's stats 56.14 miles, running time 7 hours 8.02 Mph Location: Upper Dowry Creek, NC ICW MM 131.7


Tuesday, March 16, 2004

 
Tuesday, March 16, 2004
Anchoring next to Camp Lejeune is always interesting. In the late afternoon we heard the heavy 155mm or similar guns being fired. An Osprey helicopter hovered overhead and practiced touch and go landings. That evening after the exercises were over all we could hear was hundreds of tree frogs peeping.
The morning was cloudy, fog and rain. This is probably one of the grayest days of our entire trip. We left a little earlier than normal at 6:20 am to be sure we cleared one restricted bridge before 7am. Today's run was in the morning thru Bogue Sound. It is very shallow on both sides of the channel and runs due east. The south wind kicked up a nasty chop that rolled the boat a little. Steering was tiring and Sandra and I worked hard to pick up each navigation marker correctly. With bad visibility we also had the radar running. The navigation markers reflect radar quite well and you can tell if you are on the right line to each marker by looking at the radar. Luckily as we reached Moorehead City, NC the sound narrowed and the rain let up. From there we had an uneventful run thru some creeks and manmade canals to our anchorage. Just before the anchorage we passed a large dredge working in the canal. The dredge only left a small opening to pass thru to the side.
Tonight we are anchored in a creek just off the Neuse River. The forecast for the next few days is unsettled as low-pressure areas are hanging off the Carolina Coast. Most of the ICW from here to Virginia crosses large open rivers or sounds, so we are expecting less than ideal conditions.
Today's stats 57 miles, running time 7.58 hours 7.52 Mph Location: Cedar Creek, NC ICW MM 187.5


Monday, March 15, 2004

 
Monday, March 15, 2004
Carolina Beach State Park Marina is home to 5 small Coast Guard Patrol boats that protect a military ammunition facility on the Cape Fear River. These young men patrol 4 hour shifts 24 hours per day. Some of them are called up reservists and we owe a debit of gratitude to all of them.
We left the marina with a warm South wind and for the first time in days it felt good to be outside driving the boat. The tide was low so I was able to squeak under two bridges that have very restrictive opening schedules at Wrightsville Beach and just north.
I had never noticed it before, but the water in the ICW at Wrightsville Beach is clear blue/green, just like southern Florida. My excellent planning came to an end when I realized I would miss the hourly opening of the Surf City, NC Bridge by 15 minutes. I tried pushing to boat speed up but the current was not helping and in the end I slowed down to 4 mph to burn up 45 minutes. Nasty!!!!! It is hard to understand why these bridges need to be so restricted, especially when it is not "beach season".
In the early afternoon we started to see squall and rain storms. We were able to get fuel at New River Marina for 1.18 a gallon. This marina is normally the lowest cost fuel on the entire ICW. Since last buying fuel we ran 47 hours and averaged 3 GPH.
Our anchorage for the night is Mile Hammock Bay, the dredged basin that is also used by the Marines for training.
Today's stats 52.58 miles, running time 7.5 hours 7.01 Mph Location: Mile Hammock Bay, NC ICW MM 244.5


Sunday, March 14, 2004

 
Sunday, March 14, 2004
We left the Myrtle Beach area under cloudy skies. Unlike yesterday, today we had favorable tides and it made a tremendous difference in our speed over the ground. The first part of the run was thru the famous "Rockpile", a part of the ICW with underwater rocks on each side, which we passed without incident. We also were able to get the bridges to open on demand since it is not yet peak season. It did, however feel strange to spend most of the day traveling due east, since the coastline of southern NC runs that way.
Today's run also passed two or three inlets. One, know as Lockwood's Folly always is prone to shoaling, but it now has only 4 feet of water at low tide. When we went thru we had about 1 ¾ feet of tide, so drawing 3 ½ feet we where ok, but in front of us a sailboat drawing 5 ½ feet ran aground. It seems the Bush administration has provided ZERO funding for the ICW and it is starting to show.
In the early afternoon we made our way into the Cape Fear River. The good news was the tide was in our favor and we were making good time. The bad news is that the wind from the NE was against the tide and created nasty 2-3 foot waves at the mouth of the river.
Tonight we are docked at a very nice state marina just at the head of the Cape Fear River called Carolina Beach State Park. It's peaceful with nice views.
Today's stats 56.98 miles, running time 7.16 hours 7.96 Mph Location: Carolina Beach State Park Marina, NC ICW MM 297.1


Saturday, March 13, 2004

 
Saturday, March 13, 2004
We left Georgetown, SC on a calm morning and temperature about 48 degrees. The wind soon cam back from the East and that picked up the cold of the sea surface, now about 52 degrees. As usual we wimped out and headed downstairs to the inside steering position. Most of today's run was on the Waccamaw River, one of the most beautiful sections of the ICW. There is no development, the river is deep making navigation easy and both sides are untouched cypress swamps. We say ospreys, herons, egrets and large snapping turtles sunning themselves on the logs. We did leave Georgetown about an hour too early and that gave up a bad tide and current. All day we saw only 2 or 3 other large boats. We had one restricted bridge to make that only opens on the ¼ and ¾ hour. It is located next to a brand new high-rise bridge, but local pressure has kept the relic in operation. About 3 miles before the bridge the GPS said I was a few minutes late for the opening, so I decided to burn a little fuel and push the boat just a little past "normal cruise speed." We made the bridge with about a minute to spare. Just after the Socastee Bridge the ICW changes to the ugly development of Myrtle Beach.
Tonight we are docked at the Barefoot Landing Retail Complex. They have a free dock, but the owners plan a large marina across from the free docks and it is expected that when the marina is built the free docks will go away.
Today's stats 49.75 miles, running time 7.66 hours 6.49 Mph Location: Barefoot Landing, Myrtle Beach, SC ICW MM 354


Friday, March 12, 2004

 
Friday, March 12, 2004
Last night at the anchorage on the South Santee River we had a first. A local fisherman asked us to clear the entire river so he could drift net. He was not happy when I said no and asked him to share the river.
The morning was clear and not as cold as the last few nights (51 DEG.). We made just a short run to Georgetown the former center of the SC rice industry until the end of the 19th century. Downtown Georgetown is wonderful with shops, restaurants and beautiful restored homes. It has more restaurants in a small area than any other stop we have seen on the ICW. Sandra and I toured the Rice Museum and saw how at one time almost all of the rice in the US was grown here.
We also had lunch in a local café, Thomas's Cafe. One part of the decor of the café was a cooler dating to the 1950's. The afternoon has turned warm (70 ) and we are enjoying all of the spring blooms here.
Tomorrow will be a strong contrast to the restored elegance of Georgetown; we will be near the Outlet Malls of North Myrtle Beach!!!!!
Today's stats 19.24 miles, running time 2.75 hours 7.00 Mph Location: Georgetown, SC ICW MM 402.9


Thursday, March 11, 2004

 
Thursday, March 11, 2004
After our enjoyable day off in Charleston we left the City Marina under clear skies and 41-degree temperatures. The wind was calm as we crossed Charleston harbor past historic Fort Sumter and then turned northeast to track past the marshes of the Cape Roman Wildlife Refuge. We only saw two boats, but one, a northbound express cruiser refused to slow down and badly waked up in a tight channel. For the record the name of the boat was "Hasley".
Tonight we are anchored among the trees and marsh grasses with only a dock as a reminder of development. Winds are again picking up and the anchorage is wide, so I have extra chain out. Tomorrow will be a short run to the historic town of Georgetown, SC with its many restored homes.
Today's stats 51.44 miles, running time 6.25 hours 8.23 Mph Location: South Santee River, SC ICW MM 420

Wednesday, March 10, 2004
For Sandra and I we have now been in Charleston three times and we can finally find our way around with out a map and looking like tourists. We walked the City Market, picked up some pralines and bear claw candy at our favorite shop and then went to Sandra's "other favorite supermarket" - Harris Teeters in Charleston. It was sunny, but the strong north winds still felt less than springtime here. Yesterday looking up at the boat I noticed that one of my VHF antennas was down. The nylon mount broke during a windy day. I ran with the marina's courtesy van to West Marina and of course they were out of the part I needed. For now I will do without it - that antenna serves the lower steering station and I can either use my upper helm vhf or the handheld for now. Maybe I will get lucky and find the part in Georgetown.

Wednesday, March 10, 2004

 
Tuesday, March 9, 2004
Last night we were anchored in a quiet creek just off the North Edisto River in SC. When we first tried to anchor it dragged, so we went further up the creek for better holding. Tom Point Creek was just wide enough so we could swing around when the current shifter with each tide change. It was very windy until evening, and then quickly cooled. In the morning it was 39 degrees so we wimped out and turned on the generator and heat. I also wimped out on the steering, doing most of it from inside. We reached Charleston's City Marina in a few hours and then spent most of the rest of the day doing laundry and cleaning the boat. The have High Speed Internet here so its also a good opportunity to do more serious Internet work. We will take tomorrow off to go into Charleston.
Today's stats 28.23 miles, running time 3.5 hours 8.06 Mph Location: City Marina, Charleston SC ICW MM 469

Monday, March 08, 2004

 
Monday, March 8, 2004
Overnight at the marina in Beaufort, SC the cold front passed thru about 11PM. Winds increased to 36 mph and I went out and added extra dock lines to keep the boat from bouncing into the floating docks. The next morning was crisp, clear and 48 degrees. We checked the wind forecast; it was below 15 knots so we headed out. Today' run included 11 miles in the Coosaw River ( part of St Helena Sound ), which is wide and builds up a chop. We had good fortune to have the wind and waves behind us. The crossing went with out incident and the rest of the day's run was thru mostly undeveloped low country.
We are anchored tonight in a small creek and tomorrow will head for our favorite Southern City, Charleston, SC Winds are predicted to be northerly and temperatures will not be much above high 50's for the next few days. It is on the cooler days we really appreciate being able to steer from the inside of the boat.
Today's stats 42.35 miles, running time 5.66 hours 7.48 Mph Location: Tom Point Creek, SC ICW MM 495.7

Sunday, March 07, 2004

 
Sunday, March 7, 2004
It was a glorious and warm morning as we left the Savannah area and headed North out of Georgia and into South Carolina. The weather calls for colder after tonight, but for now its spring here with trees in bloom and pollen everywhere. For the first 4 hours we had favorable tides and we slowly left behind the marshes of Georgia and then Hilton Head Island came into view. I am always interested to see how well they have kept the shoreline with its trees in spite of the heavy development at Hilton Head. It shows it can be done.
We had very little winds crossing two ocean facing sounds today and after crossing the second one, Port Royal we made our way past the marine Base at Paris Island and on to Beaufort, SC. Since winds are supposed to be over 20-25 knots tonight as the front comes through I decided on a marina instead of the anchorage. Sandra had one last chance to run to one of our favorite southern grocery stores: Publix. Maybe we can get them to open one in the Northern neck of Virginia????? We are enjoying the last of the 80 degree weather and hoping we will see it again before we reach home in Virginia.
Today's stats 47.89 miles, running time 6.16 hours 7.77 Mph Location: Beaufort, SC ICW MM 535.9

Saturday, March 06, 2004

 
Saturday, March 6, 2004
Did I mention that 6 plus foot tides create real currents? At night you can actually hear the tide running in and out. One of the essential elements for doing the ICW is good ground tackle and anchors. We have 150 feet of chain and a heavy "Super Max" anchor. In these conditions you need all the help you can get and it lets you sleep better!!!!! Chain can also be deployed with less length than rope and that helps in some of the tighter anchoring spots.
Winds died down overnight and wee had a calm morning departing from the Georgia marshes. Today we had to cross two large sounds with 3-5 miles of open water each. The winds as predicted where from behind and S-SW so the chop was also from that direction. Later in the day winds really picked up in the low 20's, but by then we had reached more protected waters. Tonight we are cozy at the docks of Thunderbolt Marina just below Savannah, GA. We were overdue for laundry, fuel and to get rid of trash. The boat also got a much needed cleaning. It appears that this area is the gnat capital of America. I have never seen this many bugs, not even in the swamps of Florida…nasty !!!!!!
Today's stats 62.50 miles, running time 7.5 hours 8.33 Mph Location: Thunderbolt GA ICW MM 583.2

Friday, March 05, 2004

 
Friday, March 5, 2004
It was a perfect morning on the Georgia marshes as we left Cumberland Island. A light mist was hanging just above the water and only the boat made any ripples. The gentle conditions were idea for crossing St Andrews Sound below Jekyll Island. This is one of the more feared parts of the ICW, because the router actually takes you into the Atlantic Ocean for a few hundred yards before turning back inland.
In the afternoon winds picked up in advance of the next cold front and by the time we made our anchorage in the march it was about 15 plus from the SE. Tomorrow we have some more open sounds to cross, but the predicted winds from the South should keep the sea conditions decent.
Today's stats 66.73 miles, running time 8.33 hours 8.01 Mph Location: New Teakettle Creek, GA ICW MM 646

Thursday, March 4, 2004
What is there not to like about a lay day on the water. We awoke to heavy fog over the anchorage, just barely being able to see the 3 sailboats also there. We took the dinghy to the Sea Camp Dock at Cumberland Island and then hiked to the Dungeness area. There we joined a tour of the ruins of the Carnegie Estate. It was the descendents of the Carnegie's who had the foresight in the 70's to donate this island rather than develop it. After the tour we walked about 1-½ miles along the wide and hard packed beach. When you see the beautiful dunes and trees it makes me wonder why we have left so little of our seacoast to appreciate in its natural state. Cumberland allows camping, bit in sites and backcountry and we saw groups of backpackers on the island. For anyone that comes this way we highly recommend a stop at this island. Access is also available by ferry from St Mary's, GA.

Wednesday, March 03, 2004

 
Wednesday March 3, 2004
The morning was clear and still over the anchorage. Expect for the heavy development at Amelia Island and Fernandina Beach today's run was thru untouched creeks and marshes. This part of Florida has exactly the same landscape as southern Georgia. Once again we are in an area with large tidal ranges of 6 feet or so and with these tides come currents. Luck was with us and we have the current in the correct direction most of the day. At the intersection of the ICW with the St Johns River the current made the river look like a washing machine.
Sandra realized today that is early spring in this part of the country, the trees are just coming out and the tulips and azaleas are in bloom.
Tonight we are anchored of thee Nation Seashore at Cumberland Island Georgia. Tomorrow we will take the day off to explore the island.
Today's stats 56.24 miles, running time 6.5 hours 7.65 Mph Location: Cumberland Island National Seashore, GA, ICW MM 710

Monday, March 01, 2004

 
Monday, March 1, 2004
Another cloudy day, but with temperatures above 60 we are not complaining. Winds are near calm and we made our way thru Daytona Beach and North. Tides and currents are again a factor for the first time in three days and for most of the morning the current was against us. Today's run was mostly in the Halifax River, which then gave way to manmade cuts. Tonight we are staying at the dock of Liz and Jim Dupes. They are MTOA (Marine Trader Owners Association) members and Port Captains and generously offered their dock and also ran us to the store for some supplies.
Today's stats 36.17 miles, running time 4.5 hours 8.03 Mph Location: Palm Coast, FL ICW MM 802

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